Costume National FW 2016/2017

Costume National is synonym with black, New Wave, rock’n’roll darkness. Until now.

The show we saw a few days ago in was Milan truly a surprise. Despite  it felt undoubtedly “Costume”, this time around Ennio Capasa painted his dark canvas with sporadic touches of flashy colors like fire engine red, cobalt blue and chlorophyll green. Not to mention the artisanal “couture” touches, intricate embroidery as well as an elaborate use of studs.

Like in a rock show, the colors acted as spotlights, and spotlights make you discover something that was hidden, underlining once again the mysterious power of darkness.

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Annunci

Costume e lingua

Come si pronuncia Costume National? All’inglese (Costium Nescional) o alla francese (Costüm Nasional)? Nel settore moda pare non ci sia una risposta univoca.

Anche alla sfilata della collezione uomo PE2015 si sentivano entrambe le versioni, pronunciate da fashionisti di ogni latitudine. Ma poco importa. Quello che conta è che anche questa volta Ennio Capasa è riuscito a parlare la sua lingua, quella di uno stile chiaro, netto, definito, preciso, focalizzato. Può piacere o meno, ma è uno dei pochi stilisti che abbia il coraggio di lavorare di fino, aggiungendo a ciascuna collezione un pezzo di percorso senza doverlo stravolgere ogni volta, senza scopiazzare tendenze preconfezionate o facendo – chessò – salti mortali dalla Sicilia alla Spagna cercando una giustificazione da sussidiario ormai scaduto.

Capasa parla la lingua di una trasgressione raffinatissima, che normalizza quello che una volta faceva storcere il naso, che sa cristallizzare la storia delle subculture e ce le fa vedere con occhi nuovi.

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Smiling Fashion Week 1

Candela Novembre at Costume National

Candela Novembre at Costume National

Franca Sozzani at Costume National

Franca Sozzani at Costume National

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

At Prada

Lug Von Siga 2013 F/W Collection

My new article from Cool Hunting

After eight years in advertising, Turkish designer Gül Agiş switched gears and returned to school, studying fashion first in Istanbul and then in Milan, where she received a masters degree from the revered Politecnico di Milano. Her talents caught the eye of C’N’C Costume National, and she worked there for several years before returning home to set up her own line, Lug Von Siga. Agiş has built a name for herself with collections based on essentials, keeping to clean cuts, neutral tones and feminine silhouettes. Now in its fifth season, Agiş’s latest collection begins to explore a more decorative side, with an elegant combination of technical construction with traditional Turkish styling.

“My Tears Are My Witness” is the main theme of the collection, where style, anthropology and social issues come together. The collection makes a direct reference to women who, in some regions of Turkey, are forced to get married with older men, in turn losing their own future and the possibility to dream.

While approaching this strong and controversial reality, the clothes show an intricate yet clear combination of textures, like the Anatolian symbols hidden in traditional carpet patterns. The shapes are incredibly modern and define an almost imaginary feminine body, full of extreme curves.

Shown here for the first time, the press campaign underlines these cultural and visual extremes thanks to the dramatic pictures shot by Ayten Alpün, and styled by Hakan Öztürk. The upshot are highly narrative and intensely evocative images reminiscent of innovative artistic movements like Expressionism and Surrealism.