Costume National FW 2016/2017

Costume National is synonym with black, New Wave, rock’n’roll darkness. Until now.

The show we saw a few days ago in was Milan truly a surprise. Despite  it felt undoubtedly “Costume”, this time around Ennio Capasa painted his dark canvas with sporadic touches of flashy colors like fire engine red, cobalt blue and chlorophyll green. Not to mention the artisanal “couture” touches, intricate embroidery as well as an elaborate use of studs.

Like in a rock show, the colors acted as spotlights, and spotlights make you discover something that was hidden, underlining once again the mysterious power of darkness.

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Annunci

Paula Cademartori SS 2016

With the current SS collection Paula Cademartori is showing that she’s not just an “emerging designer” anymore, but a full grown-up creative and entrepreneurial mind.

Bags, shoes and small leather accessories are slowly and inexorably creating a real fashion world, ready to be expanded in several directions. Her vision is clear and her approach is that of an established brand.

It’s not anymore just about color and fun, but here we’re seeing style, class, elegance, irony, something pretty rare and unusual in the landscape of young fashion.

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Caruso FW 2016/2017

The next journey of Caruso is once again a journey.

And this time is starts form the land (earthy tones, rare materials, genuine styles) and goes straight to the space, with prints and jacquards that recall NASA but also the Little Prince.

Bravo to Sergio Colantuoni. Once again you made us dream and want to leave with you, to infinity and beyond!

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Smiles from Milan Fashion Week

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John Varvatos Menswear AW2015

Milan, 17 January 2015

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Il Mediterraneo di Boglioli

Le immagini nostalgiche del turismo nel Mediterraneo negli anni ’60 e ’70 sono l’ispirazione della collezione PE 2015 di Boglioli. Durante la presentazione i modelli erano tranquilli e rilassati, nel cortile di un maestoso palazzo del centro di Milano, uno di quelli che ti fanno pensare di essere a Roma o a Parigi. Il set era ispirato all’Hotel Il Pellicano, storica meta turistica di Porto Ercole, in Toscana. E in pochi secondi ci si sentiva già in viaggio.

In questo contesto i colori (forti e precisi) e i materiali (ricchi e piacevoli al tatto) erano netti e definiti. I toni delle ginestre, tutti i blu del mare, i bruciati da macchia mediterranea in Agosto c’erano tutti, uno in fila all’altro, come un panorama da cartolina piacevolmente sbiadita. Una cartolina nella quale passeggiare con una mano in tasca, tra tagli impeccabili, qualche sottile sorpresa (la spalle più disegnate del solito), proporzioni magistrali, tessuti con i quali vorresti farci una coperta di Linus per averli sempre con sé, in ogni viaggio.

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Lupi e Leopardi

Lupi e Leopardi (GIacomo), verde militare e rosa cipria, pelliccia e lana, tubi arrugginiti e monitor al plasma, velluto e gomma, neon e neve, viaggi e ululati. Ogni collezione di Marras è un viaggio nella poesia del fare belle cose.