“My shoes are Rossi, Sergio Rossi”. Here’s what we could be saying next winter.
The FW 2016/2017 collection designed by Angelo Ruggeri is almost completely black and clearly inspired by secret agents, spies, soldiers and trekkers.
This is going to be the perfect line of accessories for a charming man in need to go to an exclusive party, run away, fight, catch an helicopter jumping from the terrace, climb a mountain, kill the evil guy and then lay in front of a fireplace.
Maybe this is not daily life, but for many a daily dream.
The show we saw a few days ago in was Milan truly a surprise. Despite it felt undoubtedly “Costume”, this time around Ennio Capasa painted his dark canvas with sporadic touches of flashy colors like fire engine red, cobalt blue and chlorophyll green. Not to mention the artisanal “couture” touches, intricate embroidery as well as an elaborate use of studs.
Like in a rock show, the colors acted as spotlights, and spotlights make you discover something that was hidden, underlining once again the mysterious power of darkness.
With the current SS collection Paula Cademartori is showing that she’s not just an “emerging designer” anymore, but a full grown-up creative and entrepreneurial mind.
Bags, shoes and small leather accessories are slowly and inexorably creating a real fashion world, ready to be expanded in several directions. Her vision is clear and her approach is that of an established brand.
It’s not anymore just about color and fun, but here we’re seeing style, class, elegance, irony, something pretty rare and unusual in the landscape of young fashion.
“Detachment, introspection, distance” are the keywords of the new collection of Lucio Vanotti. And those are also the anti-keywords of the social media age, the perfect antonyms of “sharing, visibility, contact”.
Is this the antidote to the overexposure that fashion is experiencing these days? Probably this is what Giorgio Armani thought when he had to chose one young designer for his initiative in supporting young talents.
Vanotti’s collection is mature and down to earth, perfectly fine-tuned with the contemporary world but courageous and experimental when it comes to shapes, cuts and proportions. After the catwalk, many people in the theatre thought that Lucio would make a very good heir to the design legacy of Gorgeous Giorgio.
Arthur Arbesser has some interesting ideas about fashion, and it’s getting clearer and clearer with each collection.
For the next Autumn/Winter he’s proposing a delicate balance of lengths, balances, volumes that really feels out of time. Who cares about the main trends, who cares about the season, who cares about moments and occasions. Arthur (who is also competing for the LVMH Prize) shows there’s an independent and alternative way to get things done, without dramas, chocks and peacock-like costumes.