Costume National FW 2016/2017

Costume National is synonym with black, New Wave, rock’n’roll darkness. Until now.

The show we saw a few days ago in was Milan truly a surprise. Despite  it felt undoubtedly “Costume”, this time around Ennio Capasa painted his dark canvas with sporadic touches of flashy colors like fire engine red, cobalt blue and chlorophyll green. Not to mention the artisanal “couture” touches, intricate embroidery as well as an elaborate use of studs.

Like in a rock show, the colors acted as spotlights, and spotlights make you discover something that was hidden, underlining once again the mysterious power of darkness.

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Annunci

Paula Cademartori SS 2016

With the current SS collection Paula Cademartori is showing that she’s not just an “emerging designer” anymore, but a full grown-up creative and entrepreneurial mind.

Bags, shoes and small leather accessories are slowly and inexorably creating a real fashion world, ready to be expanded in several directions. Her vision is clear and her approach is that of an established brand.

It’s not anymore just about color and fun, but here we’re seeing style, class, elegance, irony, something pretty rare and unusual in the landscape of young fashion.

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Lucio Vanotti FW 2016/2017

“Detachment, introspection, distance” are the keywords of the new collection of Lucio Vanotti. And those are also the anti-keywords of the social media age, the perfect antonyms of “sharing, visibility, contact”.

Is this the antidote to the overexposure that fashion is experiencing these days? Probably this is what Giorgio Armani thought when he had to chose one young designer for his initiative in supporting young talents.

Vanotti’s collection is mature and down to earth, perfectly fine-tuned with the contemporary world but courageous and experimental when it comes to shapes, cuts and proportions. After the catwalk, many people in the theatre thought that Lucio would make a very good heir to the design legacy of Gorgeous Giorgio.

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Caruso FW 2016/2017

The next journey of Caruso is once again a journey.

And this time is starts form the land (earthy tones, rare materials, genuine styles) and goes straight to the space, with prints and jacquards that recall NASA but also the Little Prince.

Bravo to Sergio Colantuoni. Once again you made us dream and want to leave with you, to infinity and beyond!

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Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser has some interesting ideas about fashion, and it’s getting clearer and clearer with each collection.

For the next Autumn/Winter he’s proposing a delicate balance of lengths, balances, volumes that really feels out of time. Who cares about the main trends, who cares about the season, who cares about moments and occasions. Arthur (who is also competing for the LVMH Prize) shows there’s an independent and alternative way to get things done, without dramas, chocks and peacock-like costumes.

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

Arthur Arbesser AW 2015

John Varvatos Menswear AW2015

Milan, 17 January 2015

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Drums and drones

L’ultima sfilata di Marras, quella per la collezione uomo PE2015, ha dimostrato come le dicotomie vecchio/nuovo, tradizione/innovazione, digitale/analogico, troppo abusate da giornalisti e uffici stampa senza idee, oramai non abbiano più alcun senso.

Il lavoro di Marras è sempre un tutt’uno, che fonde e trasforma tamburi e droni, maglie sportive e tessuti d’alta sartoria, popolo del circus of fashion e vecchiette alla finestra, sport e birra, Sardegna e Africa, Gigi Riva e Brasile. Tutto mirabilmente accorpato, amalgamato, ridotto, esattamente come accade in cucina: quando mangi un buon piatto non riesci a distinguere gli ingredienti, ma scopri sapori nuovi; non riesci ad analizzare il percorso, ma vuoi comunque godere al massimo di quell’attimo di estasi.

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